I shall now describe two separate moments in Mussoorie that I have fallen in love with and really emphasize the charm of this town of 35,000 people (remember Banaras holds over 2,000,000).
Everyday I, often accompanied by others, leave the hotel for a few hours to wander around the town (the Mall, the allies built into the hillside, the numerous interlinking staircases, the woods) invariably we end up at the Mussoorie Sweet Shop. The Mussoorie Sweet Shop is built into a corner, open on two sides cluttered with tables and benches, a counter selling samosas and sweets, and three employees. Everyday we drink chai there, sometimes several times a day. There chai is 7 ruppees a cup, perfectly sweet, perfectly spiced, and always freshly made. They also sell some of the best Samosas I have ever had, and delicious hot milk with cardamom, dates, and almonds. It is this Mussoorie Sweet Shop that makes me feel so at home.
The next place we found on one of our treks through town, into the northern Landor Bazaar. This little café, hidden in ally we spied and vowed to return. What we expected to be a place selling chai, samosas, and gulab juman, turned out instead to sell Swedish Pancakes, Chicken Pesto Pasta, Momos, Oatmeal Raisin cookies, and delicious mint tea. The space is the size of my brother’s room (pretty tiny) and is surrounded by windows. It I warm and you can look out over the street below, and remain entirely hidden from street life. What a wonder!
Oh also Mussoorie is filled to the brim with the most beautiful Kashmiri embroidery on pashmina scarves n’ shawls n’ silk cotton wool fabrics. So ladies place your orders ;) I bought a grey wool shawl for 150 rupees (XE.com)
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